POSITION : 13°00'•0 N and 061°14'•6 W
DATE/TIME : 31.01.2013 , 17:30 UTC
MOOD : PRICKLY
DATE/TIME : 31.01.2013 , 17:30 UTC
MOOD : PRICKLY
Grenadines-Archipelago
We had left Grenada on the 21. January and headed for the Grenadines, a collection of islands and reefs that stretch over 2 States and some 25 nautical miles in a slightly SW to NE direction.
Their history,
mainly Carriacou ( Grenada), Union Island , Mayreau , Canouan, Mystique and Bequia ( all St Vincent ), and finally St Vincent itself,
is very much tied to the "almost eternal" struggle between the English and French
in these waters,
changing ownership between them like others change their shirts.
But in 1783 with 'The Treaty of Versailles'
( does anybody know the number of Treaties of Versailles ????? ) they all became definitely English.
Whilst today some of them are pure resorts having been bought out by Hotel chains ( like PSV : Petit Saint Vincent ), or almost entirely private ( like Mystique ), the rest has a local culture with a mix of local businesses, a small number of foreign ex-patriates, and visiting tourists of all sort.
Some are doing relatively well, others are struggling, others are discontent to the point of rebellious.
In its centre lies
Tobago Cays,
the epicentre and mother of all beautiful postcard islands and reefs,
the cover of tourist and real estate brochures and any other book trying to entice the World Traveller to come here : Heaven, Paradise, Antilia !!!!!
So my best advice for you is to look for these postcard pictures elsewhere as they are much nicer than any shot taken with my old camera.
What is interesting though from a sailor's persepective is that you anchor behind Horseshoe Reef, you sway in the wind, and you are at a relatively safe anchorage whilst except for that 'little' reef ,
you have 3000 nautical miles of ocean and their huge waves just in front of you.
I can't describe that feeling, but it is awesome.
Tobago Cays,
the epicentre and mother of all beautiful postcard islands and reefs,
the cover of tourist and real estate brochures and any other book trying to entice the World Traveller to come here : Heaven, Paradise, Antilia !!!!!
So my best advice for you is to look for these postcard pictures elsewhere as they are much nicer than any shot taken with my old camera.
What is interesting though from a sailor's persepective is that you anchor behind Horseshoe Reef, you sway in the wind, and you are at a relatively safe anchorage whilst except for that 'little' reef ,
you have 3000 nautical miles of ocean and their huge waves just in front of you.
I can't describe that feeling, but it is awesome.
 JOB DESCRIPTION : SMOKING GRASS AND KILLING LOBSTERS...... |  AT ANCHOR, IT'S EVENING,......AND ONLY OCEAN IN FRONT  DEFINITELY PARADISE....... |  ....HELL'S KITCHEN OR PARADISE ???  ...........ORCHESTRATED BY " MR FABULOUS " |
What strikes me about the other mostly inhabited islands is that at a first glance they almost all look the same , difficult to cultivate with sometimes steep slopes and occupied by small communities of
descendants mostly from former slaves
and some white English or French colonist and fishermen,
the latter though mainly Scottish.
But underneath there are some issues that come to the surface only when you observe and stay a little bit longer than just the cruise ship vacationer or the
'Resort happy-hour alcohol induced living in isolation type of sun-seeker'.
Wow, what a wording.
I'm lovin it !
descendants mostly from former slaves
and some white English or French colonist and fishermen,
the latter though mainly Scottish.
But underneath there are some issues that come to the surface only when you observe and stay a little bit longer than just the cruise ship vacationer or the
'Resort happy-hour alcohol induced living in isolation type of sun-seeker'.
Wow, what a wording.
I'm lovin it !
 |  VARIOUS APPROACHES TO BUSINESS: ON THE LEFT : SIGN IN CANOUAN. ABOVE: SHOP UNION ISLAND. ON THE RIGHT : UPMARKET BOUTIQUE MYSTIQUE |  |
Besides the 'funky feeling' some more business oriented inhabitants try to bring over
via little shops combined with a lot of colours - purple and pink are the favourite -
via little shops combined with a lot of colours - purple and pink are the favourite -
not all is good in the Grenadines.
Basically it is a poor area, though slowly improving, and still very much supported by various charities and Government institutions , quite often from the US
The women try to sell "junk of bric-brac" at high prices to the unwary tourist,
whilst the men,
if not working in hotels or resorts,
either focus on selling lobster or other services to the passing sailor,
or alternatively
"smoking grass" as a recreational endevour
and devoting their past time-of which they seem to have plenty- on games similar to Dominos.
Unemployment is high, and taxi drivers are in abundance.
Most of the times it is all in a good natured spirit, so trouble is rare.
whilst the men,
if not working in hotels or resorts,
either focus on selling lobster or other services to the passing sailor,
or alternatively
"smoking grass" as a recreational endevour
and devoting their past time-of which they seem to have plenty- on games similar to Dominos.
Unemployment is high, and taxi drivers are in abundance.
Most of the times it is all in a good natured spirit, so trouble is rare.
LIKE BALOTELLI.....WHY ALWAYS ME ?
But beyond that, there is more.
If you want to know about the future of the western cities "High Street Concepts",
you can see it here already .
 |  "HIGH STREET" IMPRESSIONS FROM THE ISLANDS |  |
Some shops abandoned, the rest selling basically all the same stuff.
The only difference ?
Well at maximum the mentality of the Sales person.
Prices seem to be non-negotiable, and "fixed", so no distinction here either.
The "Competition Commissioners" in Brussels would have a field day here.
Nevertheless there are indeed examples of hard work and craftsmanship.
The only difference ?
Well at maximum the mentality of the Sales person.
Prices seem to be non-negotiable, and "fixed", so no distinction here either.
The "Competition Commissioners" in Brussels would have a field day here.
Nevertheless there are indeed examples of hard work and craftsmanship.
 On the NE side of Carriacou for instance there is a small dwelling called WIndward, that was built in the 18th century by Scottish fishermen of the Mac kind. Only some of those names have remained, the rest lie peacefully on the graveyard. Anyway, this Windward is still today a centre of boatbuilding, in wood, and the craftsmanship is really good. Each project starts with a small model, I was told , and takes roughly 6-8 months for completion. It can cost you up to $ 80,000 USD , but will last for 100 years ! The wood, by the way, comes from Ghana ! So sailors, if you want to go back to basics, come and have your boat built over here.  |  On Bequia you have the same, just the boats are smaller ,meaning they never got beyond the stage of the model. But the craftsmanship is there, and who knows, from small to big is often only a small step.  Remember the original version of the film "The Flight of the Phoenix", with Hardy Kruger as the german aircraft model designer ? May be I should have recommended that film to the locals on this island. |
Religion is also strongly present.
I haven't figured out yet whether it is because of "smoking grass" or despite of that,
but both men and women are attending almost feverishly Bible classes and congregation meetings.
The variety of churches is beyond belief .
You have as many evangelist churches in the islands as there are 'cabbies' in London,
you have anglican, presbyterian, Jehova's Witness, you name it , it is here.
Sometimes you hear the chanting and preaching well into the evening, and sometimes, when the more fanatic get involved, the sound, the screaming and shouting,
can scare the hell out of you.
There are only two catholic churches though I came about, and that was on the top of a hill on the island of Mayreau where the majority of the 300 or so population is of that religion, and the other one being on Bequia.
I haven't figured out yet whether it is because of "smoking grass" or despite of that,
but both men and women are attending almost feverishly Bible classes and congregation meetings.
The variety of churches is beyond belief .
You have as many evangelist churches in the islands as there are 'cabbies' in London,
you have anglican, presbyterian, Jehova's Witness, you name it , it is here.
Sometimes you hear the chanting and preaching well into the evening, and sometimes, when the more fanatic get involved, the sound, the screaming and shouting,
can scare the hell out of you.
There are only two catholic churches though I came about, and that was on the top of a hill on the island of Mayreau where the majority of the 300 or so population is of that religion, and the other one being on Bequia.
 ANGLICAN CHURCH, BEQUIA |  EVANGELIST ATTENDING A FUNERAL |  CATHOLIC CHURCH,MAYREAU |
It almost seems to be something of an
anachronism against the Protestantism of the other islands,
but it is a last reminder of the slaves of French colonists who tried to cultivate these places.
Elsewhere, like on Curriacou , it is even rumoured that
some old Voodoo practices from Haiti still exist.
It wouldn't surprise me, as it does
exist in London as well...
as the case of a dismembered child body found in the river Thames two years ago has proven.
As said before, the Caribbean is like London, no doubt !
The last proof of that statement is the fact that even Mick Jagger lives in this area.
At least it is rumoured that he has not been a tax resident in the UK for the last 30 years, so he must live here somewhere.
anachronism against the Protestantism of the other islands,
but it is a last reminder of the slaves of French colonists who tried to cultivate these places.
Elsewhere, like on Curriacou , it is even rumoured that
some old Voodoo practices from Haiti still exist.
It wouldn't surprise me, as it does
exist in London as well...
as the case of a dismembered child body found in the river Thames two years ago has proven.
As said before, the Caribbean is like London, no doubt !
The last proof of that statement is the fact that even Mick Jagger lives in this area.
At least it is rumoured that he has not been a tax resident in the UK for the last 30 years, so he must live here somewhere.
 BASIL'S BAR :DANA GILLESPIE AND BAND MYSTIQUE 2013 We arrived in Britannia Bay/ Mystique on 27. January and picked up a buoy instead of anchoring. Just in time for the Blues Festival that has been in Basil's Bar - the image-equivalence of Harry's Bar in Venice - for more than 30 years, always around this time of the year. T-shirts made in China with Basil's signature cost $25 USD the piece in his own boutique shop next to the bar. That says it all. |  KNOCK,KNOCK,AND WHO LIVES HERE ? The first day was great. You have a couple of rum-punches, you listen to the excellent performances of the artists . You also hear about the whole category of rental prices of various properties ( $25,000 USD per week upwards ) and their famous owners like indeed Mick Jagger, Brian Adams or Tommy Hilfiger and in their wake other famous but mostly old retirees. All in all 90 houses, half of them for rent, ad no more will be built. Gosh, all these celebrities in one spot of the world. What would happen to all Gossip magazines and world wide TV entertainment if a Tsunami strikes this island ? |
I hope they can run well , these old folk !
Colin Tennant
When Colin Christopher Paget Tennant, 3rd Baron Glenconner (1926 – 2010),
a rich british entrepreneur,
had the idea of leasing the island from the St Vincent Government
with a contract of 99 years,
the few locals and others were excited.
Jobs and income seemed to be coming, business should have been flourishing, and self-esteem given to the locals for providing for themselves.
Due to Tennant's good connections with the British Royals, Princess Margaret was the first investor and soon got others interested to build or buy houses there,
and the legend of Mystique was created.
I still wonder what is so attractive to live next to Royalty,
but I guess it is mostly new, not old money.
a rich british entrepreneur,
had the idea of leasing the island from the St Vincent Government
with a contract of 99 years,
the few locals and others were excited.
Jobs and income seemed to be coming, business should have been flourishing, and self-esteem given to the locals for providing for themselves.
Due to Tennant's good connections with the British Royals, Princess Margaret was the first investor and soon got others interested to build or buy houses there,
and the legend of Mystique was created.
I still wonder what is so attractive to live next to Royalty,
but I guess it is mostly new, not old money.
Now I don't know when and where it got wrong, at least in the eyes of the locals.
Because since then all the house-owners have now a share in the Mystique Company, and participate in their fortunes and expenses. In their capacity as "owners of the island" they seemingly have decided
to keep the place extremely private.
In fact over Christmas and New Year the island shuts down, even as a passing boat visitor you can only walk the 50m from the jetty to Basil's Bar, and the taxi drivers and other locals are being payed for doing nothing, as movement is restricted everywhere.
Security makes sure of that.
Even without that the whole island gives the impression of an
"Old Peoples Nursing Home",
just the nurses are missing.
At least one can't see them wearing uniforms.
As a result,
resentment against the Company and its shareholders by the locals and
those coming over from St Vincent for work, is growing.
They regard themselves as the 'New Slaves',
living on the welfare of a few very rich people, and they don't like it.
They are angry with the owners,
with their Government in St Vincent - who has no influence on the direction of the island - and
probably they are angry with themselves.
AND THE MORAL OF THE STORY ?
Life goes on elsewhere REGARDLESS:
Because since then all the house-owners have now a share in the Mystique Company, and participate in their fortunes and expenses. In their capacity as "owners of the island" they seemingly have decided
to keep the place extremely private.
In fact over Christmas and New Year the island shuts down, even as a passing boat visitor you can only walk the 50m from the jetty to Basil's Bar, and the taxi drivers and other locals are being payed for doing nothing, as movement is restricted everywhere.
Security makes sure of that.
Even without that the whole island gives the impression of an
"Old Peoples Nursing Home",
just the nurses are missing.
At least one can't see them wearing uniforms.
As a result,
resentment against the Company and its shareholders by the locals and
those coming over from St Vincent for work, is growing.
They regard themselves as the 'New Slaves',
living on the welfare of a few very rich people, and they don't like it.
They are angry with the owners,
with their Government in St Vincent - who has no influence on the direction of the island - and
probably they are angry with themselves.
AND THE MORAL OF THE STORY ?
Life goes on elsewhere REGARDLESS:
 1. ON SPORTSDAY CHILDREN RUN AT THEIR BEST.  3. WHILST MY FOOTSTEP WILL LEAVE NO TRACE. |  2. THE BARBER DOES HIS DAILY DUES... 4. The weather is nice, though very windy at present, the beaches are beautiful, the lobster is excellent, we are in Bequia now and about to check-out for returning to Saint Lucia , my crew is rum-punch happy.............. and I wonder whether I should care or not. Yours , Master Mike |
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